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Candle Making         List of Categories        

The following Frequently Asked Questions about candle making should be helpful to all.




  • I am making container candles. How long should you wait before burning them?

    Generally candles will attain optimum burn time if you allow them to sit for 48 - 72 hours before burning. The difference in burn time is minimal though, so many folks burn them as soon as they harden without any noticeable change in performance.

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  • What do you use to remove wax and tabs from the bottom of used candle jars?

    The wick tabs and excess wax can easily be removed if you place the jar in a freezer for about 30 minutes. This will make the wax brittle and easy to scrape off with a wooden dowel or other implement that will not scratch the glass. Important: Alllow the glass to return to room temperature before pouring to prevent cracking due to thermal shock.

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  • Are the wet spots on my jar candles because my wax is too cold when I pour it?

    No, pouring too cold would cause far more blemishes in the form of horizontal lines and bubbles. Wet spots are caused by expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. A full explanation of wet spots can be found here.

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  • How can I remove the scent from a candle?

    There is no way to do that. The scent becomes an integral part of the wax when the candle is made.

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  • Can you use transparencies in Hurricane candles?

    I have never tried, but it would probably work depending on on the heat and oil sensitiviy of the transparency. Test it by placing one,in a small amount of wax at your normal hurricane pouring temperature. If using in a hurricane shell, fire resistance is not a factor but in a solid hurricane candle you should also test to make sure it won't burn.

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  • How much gel do I need to make (your number here)candles?

    That depends on the size of the candle. Multiply the number of ounces your mold or jar holds times the number of candles. This will provide the number of ounces required. To calculate pounds divide the number of ounces by 16.

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  • How can I "polish" a pillar candle without leaving scraches in the candle?

    Sorry, but to the best of my knowledge there is no way to do this. Buffing with a very soft cloth may help a bit, but will still dull the finish.

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  • What is the best way to store candles for a long period of time?

    Generally as long as the temperature is not hot enough to melt or soften them candles have no special requirements for storage. It is a very good idea to store them in total darkness to prevent fading. Sunlight (both direct and indirect) and some flourescent lights cause horrendous fading on candles.

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  • How to color a candle using food coloring?

    You don't. Food color is water based and candles are oil based - they are incompatible.

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  • On your old website you had tutorials, where are they now?

    Candle Projects are now at: Free Candle Making Project Instructions

    General Candle Making instructions are now at: Free Candle Making Instructions



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  • Do you have any information on how to market the candles I have made?

    Yes, as a matter of fact I have written an e-book on it. This is an expansion of my candle / craft business seminars and goes into far greater detail. A free evaluation copy containing excerpts from the book (including some useful information) is available here The full book on CD is purchasable here.

    It will run on most PC's (older systems and pre windows 98 machines may have a problem).
    To run on Macs a pc emulator such as VirtualPC is needed.



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  • Can I melt wax on a stove top?

    Not directly. Always use a double boiler whenever possible. This does not have to be a commercial double boiler. Place an old pot with several inches of water in it on the stovetop. The wax goes in a smaller pot (our pouring pots are great for this) placed inside the first pot.

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  • What makes the added scent bead up when added to the wax? I added the scent and it seemed to cloud up and form beads when I let it settle breifly/

    This commonly occurs when using potpourri oils in candle making. Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) is not soluble in wax and is a common ingredient in potpourri oils. Some companies market these as candle oils even though they are messy to use in candles. There are also a few common scent oil ingredients such as vanillin which may precipitate out in the wax if it is present in high levels.

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  • Why don't my scented candles smell when burning?

    This is such a complex topic but I will try to list the main reasons here:
    • Not enough fragrance oil - generally 1 ounce of scent oil per pound of wax is necessary to make strongly scented candles.
    • The scent oil was "cooked" too long in the wax - the scent should be added just before pouring
    • Use of low quality scent oil. This is not a problem with ours, but there are some really cheap, low quality scent oils on the market.
    • Poor melt pool - Fragrance is released by evaporation from the melt pool. The larger the melt pool, the more scent throw.
    • Some fragrances are inherently weaker than others. For example Watermelon will never smell as strong as Mulberry.


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  • I can't smell my candles, but everyone raves about them, why?

    The process of making candles puts so much scent in the air that your nose becomes desensitized. When evaluating the scent throw of a candle always have someone from outside your home or workshop evaluate them (friend or neighbor).

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  • Why are my candles turning white?

    They are fading. Many candle dyes are moderately unstable. Minimal amounts of UV light (such as reflected light from a window or some flourescent bulbs) will often fade candles quickly. If your candles are losing color check the bottom. If the bottom has not lost color then this is a fading problem. The use of UV Inhibitor will slow fading down tremendously.

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  • Why are my candles changing color?

    If the entire candle is changing color (not just one side for example), then this is most likely an oxidation problem. This is a chemical reaction caused by an incompatibility between 2 or more ingredients in your wax. I have seen this occur most commonly with pine scent oils and green dyes. There is no cure for this aside from not using that color / scent combination.

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  • Why do my candles sink in the middle?

    The laws of physics - items expand when heated and shrink when cooled. Wax is no exception to this (which is what allows it to demold easily). Some waxes are designed to shrink less such as container wax and beeswax, but all waxes will shrink to some extent.

    The shrink void is filled by making a second pour.



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  • How do I know what size wick to use?

    There is no definitive answer to this, and it does require some experimentation. Start with the wick size recommended for that candle diameter. Make a candle and test burn it. If it burns well you have the right size, if not try 1 size larger and one size smaller until the correct size is found.

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  • Why do my container candles sink in the middle and fail to burn off the wax on the side of the container? I end up with a crater in the middle and lots of wax still on the sides.

    In almost all cases of this I have encountered it is caused by the wax and is not correctable without switching to a different wax. I have encountered this most often with those sticky gooey container blends and soy waxes although I did see it once on a paraffin with a very low oil content.

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  • Why do my wicks keep going out in a puddle of wax?

    Wick drowning is normally a sign of the wick being too small for that wax formula / candle diameter combination. Ideally the correct size wick will melt wax at the same rate it consumes it.

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  • Why did my votives only burn 2 hours?

    There could be 2 reasons for this. The most common cause of this in a quality candle is failure to burn it in a votive holder. Votive candles are essentially container candles supplied without the container. This allows the candle to have a big melt pool, providing good scent throw. Cheap import votives are often poorly made and have substantially shorter burn times than a quality candle.

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  • Why do my candles have white snowflakes on them?

    This is a common problem called oil mottling. It occurs from a chemical reaction as the candle cools. The only 100% sure way to avoid these is to add 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon of Vybar® to your wax formula.

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  • Why won't my candles mottle?

    Oil mottling typically requires three things:
    • Approximately 6% (2 tablespoons, or 1 ounce) additional oil. This can be either scent oil or carrier oil (unscented scent oil) or a combination of both.
    • Slow cooling time. Mottling occurs over a window of time. Cooling too fast will inhibit mottling. Cooling too slow will too. It takes a bit of experimenting. Because they take longer to cool, larger candles are much easier to mottle than small candles.
    • No Vybar® - Vybar inhibits mottling. Use stearic in candles you intend to mottle.


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  • Do you sell lead core wick?

    Positively not! The U.S. candle industry voluntatrily stopped using lead in candle wicks many years ago. Our wire core wicks are made with zinc and conform to the CPSC ruling 16 CFR 1500.17(a)(13).

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  • Do you happen to have unscented oil for candles. So that they might come out mold easier? We do use a release agent but I like how the oil makes them come out.

    Yes, we call it carrier oil. Click Here For More Information and ordering.

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  • Do you sell soy wax?

    Not at this time. We have experimented with a quite a variety of soy waxes, but have yet to find one that can produce what we consider high quality candles. When and if we find one that produces good candles at a reasonable price it will be added to our product line.

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  • Why don't you offer candle making classes more often?

    We find that we can fill classes about once or twice a year, and it just doesn't pay to teach half full classes. Each weekend of classes requires about 50 hours of labor (this includes many hours of preparation, setup, and cleanup). The expense of labor, materials, and electricity that classes require makes it impractical if the classes are not full. Since it is difficult to do classes during the busy season (Autumn), this leaves 2 classes a year - usually January and June.

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  • Why can I see a line around my votives?

    When you reheat wax for the second pour the color shifts a bit. There is no way to prevent this, but if you place the votives in a tray and make both pours overflow, the seam will be on the corner and virtually invisible.

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  • Can I microwave wax?

    I have heard of people endorsing this, but I would highly recommend not to. Temperatures in a microwave rise very rapidly and could easily bring the wax to an unsafe temperature. Remember, when wax temperature hits its flash point it WILL burst into flames - it does not require an spark or open flame.

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  • Why do my candles appear to have rings around them?

    This is commonly called chattering. It is caused by either the pouring temperature being too low or the mold / jar being too cold. Or a combination of both. The wax is cooling as it is poured, alternately flowing and cooling up the sides of the mold. Simply increasing the pouring temperature will usually prevent this. If you normally store your molds in a cold area (garage, basement, etc...) you may need to bring them up to 60 degrees F. before using as well.

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  • Ho do I use dye blocks?

    Just shave some off the dye block with a knife and add to your wax. Start with a small amount as it is very concentrated. Test the color, and add more as needed.

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  • Why does my wax color get so much lighter when it cools?

    Wax is very transparent when liquid so the color reflects from deep in your melting pot. Once cooled, wax is more opaque and only reflects light from near the surface.

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  • How do I test wax color?

    Put a small amount of wax in a floater mold and place in a freezer for 5 minutes. The results will be the color of the candle. This wax can be added back to your melting pot.

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  • How do I select the proper size hurricane mold insert?

    Hurricane mold inserts should be selected by the following method:
    • Measure the thickness of the items to be embedded.
    • Multiply by 2
    • Subtract the result from the mold diameter.
    • The answer is the size insert that will work best. Choose the insert that is closest in size.

    Example: if we have 1/4" thick embeds and a 6" mold the math is 1/4 x 2 = 1/2 then 6 - 1/2 = 5 1/2 inch insert and should choose the closest size available to this.



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  • How do I get the insert out of my finished hurricane candle?

    Sounds like you are letting the wax cool with the insert in place. The insert must be removed from the mold long before the wax cools. Inserts are only used to hold the embeds in place long enogh for the solidifying wax to hold them in place.

    The following step by step instructions should help:

    • Place the insert in the mold.
    • Put embedments around the insert.
    • Fill mold with wax.
    • Tap several times with a wooden spoon to dislodge any trapped air. Tap with flat part of spoon to prevent denting the mold.
    • Place mold in water bath (wear heavy gloves).
    • Immediately lift the insert 1/2 inch.
    • Wait one minute, then lift insert aniother 1/2 inch.
    • Repeat step 7 until the insert is completely out of the mold.
    • Allow the candle to continue cooling until its wall thickness is about 3/8 inch.
    • Remove from the water bath.
    • Cut off the surface film.
    • Pour the wax out of the mold.
    • Allow to finish cooling.
    • Remove from mold.
    • Level the top on a hot pan or griddle.
    • It's done.

    This may sound a bit complex, but it is easier than it sounds.



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  • Why does my hurricane mold tip over in the water bath?

    Because of the large volume of hurricane molds, it is common to need 2 or 3 mold weights to keep them from floating.

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  • Why does my silicone mold have a slice in it?

    We call that a seam. Most silicone molds have one or two seams, but on extreme shapes more may be needed. Seams allow us to mold shapes that would be impossible to remove otherwise. The seams on silicone molds are held closed with rubber bands.

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  • Why is my silicone mold is leaking from the seam?

    Leaks are usually caused by a piece of dirt or dried wax in the seam. The first step in silicone mold prep is to make sure the seams are clean.

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  • Can I use chocolate molds for wax?

    Yes, but they are much more temperature sensitive than candle molds. Do not pour hotter than 165 degrees F. in chocolate molds.

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  • How can I clean Metal molds?

    Place them on their sides in a pan or cookie sheet (must have sides). Preheat an oven to 175 degrees F. and place the pan inside for about 15 minutes. The angle formed by the mold base will cause the wax to run out once it melts. If using seamless molds which have no base I put them in the pan upside down to allow the wax to run out.

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  • Why does my mold sealer putty always leak?

    If properly applied, leaks should occur rarely. Follow these steps:
    • Clean the outside bottom of the mold. This must be clean enough to eat off of. Our mold cleaner is good for cleaning this.
    • Insert the wick and coil 3/4 of an inch.
    • Cover the coiled wick with a small piece of masking tape
    • Knead a piece of putty flat and 1/4 inch larger than the masking tape
    • Press the putty in place, making sure it makes good contact with the metal


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  • Is there a better way than mold putty type sealers?

    Yes and no. Mold plugs are much faster to use, but will leak more often than properly applied putty. It is not necessary to clean molds before using plugs. Magnetic mold sealers work well also, but will not adhere to seamless or plastic molds.

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  • I used the wick size you recommended for the mold, so why does my candle burn poorly?

    The wick sizes we suggest for our molds work well for us. Hence, they should work well for you if you use exactly the same wax formula we do. If you are not using the formulas we suggest, or are using some materials from other suppliers then a different wick size will probably be needed and will require some experimentation.

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  • On the wick pages, why are your size recommendations different than the manufacturer's recommendations?

    We are unsure how the wick manufacturer came up with their suggested sizes, but for the most part we find their suggestions too large. This is most likely due to using a radically different wax formula than we do. On the other hand, our suggested sizes are based on formulas we make available for everyone to use and are based on over 30 years of candle making experience.

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  • How do I wick latex molds?

    To wick latex molds use the following procedure:
    • Find a large pin or needle (not huge, but bigger than a standard straight pin)
    • Position it where you want the wick and push it through - take care not to puncture the mold elsewhere when you do this.

    Wicking the mold:

    • Bend a thin wire in half with a tight bend to form a U shape
    • Insert the wire through the wick hole (preferably from the inside of the mold)
    • Insert a piece of wick through the U in the wire
    • Pull the wire through the mold (much like using a needle threader
    Hint: When wicking, leave a long length of wick. As you remove one candle, it will pull the wick through for the next one. This will reduce the amount of times you have to wick the mold.

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  • How do I remove latex molds?

    I prefer the following method:
    • Once fully cooled, dip the entire mold in water.
    • Rub a drop of dishwashing soap (liquid soap) all over the outside of the mold. This is essential to get the rubber to slide against itself.
    • Then just peel the mold off, allowing it to turn inside out as you go.
    If you have trouble getting a grip on the soapy mold, use a paper towel to grip the rolled edge of the mold. Make sure you turn it rightside out before storing.

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  • Why use a water bath?

    With some molds a water bath provides a slightly better finish on the candle and some techniques such as hurricane candles require the use of a water bath. A water bath also speeds cooling time.

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  • Why does my mold tip over in the water bath?

    The mold is very light, and wax is lighter than water as well. Because of this it displaces more weight in water than it weighs itself and therefore floats. To counter this, wrap a mold weight around the mold. Larger molds may require more than one mold weight.

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  • What is meant by "prepare water bath"?

    A water bath must be prepared before needed to prevent lines on the finished candle. The procedure is:
    • Seal wick hole of mold.
    • Put mold weight on mold.
    • Hold empty mold on bottom of water bath container (bucket, dipping vat, etc...). You must hold it down or it will float since there is no wax in it.
    • Pour water into container until 1/2 inch from top of mold.
    • Remove the mold and dry it.
    • Pour the candle normally.
    • Allow to sit for a minute or so.
    • Place the mold in the water bath.
    • From here use the same procedure you would use for that candle type without a water bath.


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  • Why do my candles come out of the water bath with a line around them?

    This is caused by not preparing the water level beforehand, adding water once the mold is in the water bath, or not having enough water in the container. The line occurs at the point where the original water level was.

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  • Can I use Stearic and Vybar?

    We don't recommend it. There are no horrible chemical reactions associated with combining them, but use of both will often make the wax too hard to burn well. We recommend using only Vybar, and at the rate of 1 level teaspoon per pound.

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  • Can I use Vybar, stearic, or luster crystals in Hurricane candles?

    No. All three of those make the wax opaque, and in a hurricane candle the idea is to keep it translucent. We recommend using Micro 180 as it hardens the wax without reducing translucency.

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  • Do I have to use measuring spoons?

    We highly recommend it. Use of tableware teaspoons and tablespoons is not a good idea. A teaspoon (or tablespoon) is a precise amount - yet tableware can vary a lot in actual volume. An inexpensive set of metal measuring spoons will last for many years.

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  • Do I have to weigh scent oil?

    No. The average scent oil has a volume just under 2 tablespoons per ounce, so just use a measuring spoon. Weighing scent oil is more convenient if you are mixing large batches of wax, but for small quantities it adds unnecessary extra clean up.

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  • How can I measure slab wax without a scale?

    Use a yardstick to mark a line down the center lengthwise. Next, divide that line into 5 equal sections and mark them across the width. Your slab should now be marked into 10 equal pieces each of which is slightly over 1 pound. Break the wax as close to the lines as possible.

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  • How can I measure granulated wax without a scale?

    Use a 1 cup measuring cup. 1 level cup will equal almost exactly 4 ounces of wax in its granulated state. Note that although the cup may be marked 8 ounces, that is fluid ounces - since we are weighing granulated wax it will only weigh 4 ounces.

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  • Can I add petroleum jelly to soften my wax?

    Several sources have been advocating this for years, but we do not recommend it. Our experience has shown that most candles with petroleum jelly added caused excessive smoke, mushrooms, and soot. If you need softer wax, start with softer wax and avoid these problems.

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  • Can I remelt old candles?

    Yes, wax can and should be recycled. The only drawback is that you may have to experiment to find a good wick size unless you made the candles and know what wax formula is in them.

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  • Why does my recycled wax come out brown?

    If you mix different colors of wax, the result is often brown or reddish brown. This is because mixing the primary colors (red, blue, and yellow) makes brown. The secondary colors (green, orange, and purple) are mixtures of two primary colors, so often adding just two colors together will make brown. For example: orange contains red and yellow, so mixing orange with blue gives similar results to mixing red, yellow, and blue.

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  • Can I prevent my recycled wax from turning brown?

    Yes, just sort it into color groups before using.

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  • What are some good uses for recycled wax?

    We use it for firestarters, and citronella candles mostly. Color is not a major factor for these. Another benefit is not having to worry about proper wick size - firestarters have no wick, and citronella candles work better when they smoke a bit (use an oversize wick).

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  • How can I clean my wax?

    New wax can accumulate dust and dirt from shipping, storage, dropping it, etc... When recycling wax it will also have a substantial amount of undesirable stuff such as charred particles and wick. The quickest way to clean wax is to melt it down, then strain it through a paper towel into another pot. The paper towel will filter out all the crud. Our preferred technique is to position a paper towel across the top of an empty pot forming a dip in the center. Hold it in place with a strong rubber band. Pour the wax slowly through the paper towel. After straining, remove and discard the paper towel.

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  • How do I prepare the base of a finished candle to give an even ,professional finish?

    The base needs to be leveled on a hot pan or electric griddle.

    Hot Pan Procedure:

    • Place a cake pan or similar atop a pot of boiling water.
    • The base of the candle is held against it to melt the candle level.
    • Make sure the candle is perpendicular to the pan.

    Electric Griddle:

    • Preheat the griddle to 200 degrees.
    • The base of the candle is held against it to melt the candle level.
    • Make sure the candle is perpendicular to the griddle.

    Tips:

    • Looking at it from the side is much easier than looking down on it.
    • The pan or griddle will not be usable for food after this.
    • Periodically pour out the melted wax in the pan.
    • Use a teflon spatula on the griddle to push off the melted wax.
    • Practice - it takes a few tries to get the hang of it.


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  • Why do the gel wax pages show such a low pouring temperature?

    They show the minimum pouring temperature. Any cooler and the gel wax will not pour easily.

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  • Can I pour gel wax at 300 degrees?

    Yes, if all safety rules are followed gel wax may be safely poured at 300 degrees F. Pouring this hot will eliminate most air bubbles.

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  • Why can't I use dye blocks or flakes to color gel wax?

    Actually you can, but there is a good chance they will cloud the gel. Dye Blocks and flakes contain paraffin wax which is not as transparent as the gel. This can potentially cloud the gel - especially when large quantities of dye are used.

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  • I purchased a rectangular metal candle mold from you and it came with a metal bar with a split. How do I use this device?

    The wick is sealed in the wick hole on one end. The wick bar is placed across the mold top and the other end of the wick is wedged into the split. Some people prefer to tie the wick to the bar instead. It is just a matter of preference.

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  • Do your aluminum molds have a flat bottom or are they concave?

    They are concave and have a beveled edge.

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  • I'm having a really difficult time with my hurricane candles using pressed flowers and they all float to the bottom. Do you have any suggestions at all to help me?

    There is no guaranteed cure for this that I know of. Any materials not tightly wedged between the insert and mold will move around. Since pressed flowers are so thin this is difficult to do.

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  • What temperature should be used to dip a pillar candle with a wedding invitation glued onto it?

    We find that overdipping with wax tends to cloud the image a bit so we try for a very thin coat of wax. You may want to experiment with this, but 160 - 165 degrees F. works pretty well.

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  • How do I insure that the wick remains straight in the candle?

    For molds with a wick hole, the wick is sealed at the wick hole, then fastened to a wick bar. This holds it straight. For jars and molds without a wick hole such as votives the process is slightly more complex.
    • Make the first pour
    • Straighten a tabbed wick and insert into the mold, centering it on the bottom
    • As the wax cools, periodically grasp the wick and tug gently to the center and upwards. Repeat until the candle is ready for the second pour
    • Make the second pour


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  • How do I clean the wax off of my thermometer when I am through with each candle-making session?

    The only effective way to clean candle making equipment is to wipe the wax off while it is still warm. if necessary, reheat the equipment until the wax softens.

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  • When I pull many of my hurricane candles out of the molds, some of the flowers and leaves are exposed on the outside of the hurricane candle. How can I avoid this?

    Exposed pieces of flower are just part of making hurricane candles - there is no way to eliminate it.

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  • Can I put molds in the dishwasher or wash them with soap and water?

    No - this will cause metal molds to rust, and the wax may cause plumbing problems. Furthermore wax is impervious to soap and water, so this will not get them clean. There are only 2 effective ways to clean molds - chemically (such as wax remover) or with heat (melt the wax out).

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  • When hand dipping 100% beeswax tapers, I sometimes get light-colored horizontal bands (from 1/16 of an inch to 1 inch wide). I can't figure out why.

    The only thing we have seen cause this is uneven dipping. It is important to keep everything uniform throughout the dipping process. Dipping speed (in and out), depth of dip, and wax temperature must remain constant to avoid this.

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  • Why am I having trouble getting Luster Crystals to melt?

    Luster Crystals have a much higher melting point than most other additives and waxes. The most efficient way to add them is to melt them separately in a small quantity of wax. This should be done on direct heat using extreme caution. Once melted, stir them into the melted wax. Please see the Safety Rules before using direct heat.

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  • What type of wax can I use for your latex molds?

    Most wax types should be compatible. Paraffin is definitely compatible and does not require a mold release. For more adhesive waxes such as beeswax, coating the inside of the molds with mold release is highly recommended.

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  • I am trying to make white candles, I am having trouble finding white dye, can you help me?

    Technically there is no such thing as a white dye. To get white candles we use pure paraffin with 1 level teaspoon of Vybar added. This gives a nice white appearance. Some people add Titanium Dioxide to the wax, but this is actually a pigment that may clog the wick so we don't recommend this except for over dipping.

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  • How do you drizzle pastel colors starting at the top?

    Here's the basic technique:
    • The over pour colors should be made with paraffin wax with 25% to 50% Micro 835 (tacky wax) added. This will help the overpour to adhere to the candle. Paraffin alone will tend to peel and chip off.
    • For the best color use pigments since dyes will not show their best color in thin layers.
    • The melted wax is then dripped or poured over the candle. The hotter it is the thinner the coating will be.


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    • What do you use to seal the top of Wax Art Candles so the crystals don't fall out?

      There are several techniques:
      • Pour a layer of melted wax on top.
      • Heat the top of the crystals with a propane torch (be very careful).
      • Wrap the top with plasic cling wrap until ready for use.


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    • My problem is with a crooked wick once the candle has completely cooled. How can I keep my wick nice and straight so that it burns properly.

      This would depend on the type of candle. In most molds the wick is stretched between a wick bar and the wick hole, holding it straight. In container candles and votives it is a bit more work - once the tabbed wick is inserted, allow the surface to cool until a film forms. Grasp the wick and gently tug it to the center and up. Repeat this at intervals until the wax hardens.

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    • What kind of wax should I use to make tarts for tart warmers/burners?

      We like to make them with a moderately low melt point wax formula so they liquefy quicker (releasing more scent). The formula we use is: 1 pound 130 melt point paraffin 1 level teaspoon vybar 260 1 ounce scent oil dye to suit

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    • How many pounds of wax can a 6 inch dipping vat hold?

      A six inch dipping vat full holds approximately 12 pounds of wax and should have about 11 to 11 1/2 pounds in it when you start dipping. As you dip, you will periodically have to add more wax to offset what is on the candles as several ounces go into each candle. This does not matter if using one dipping frame, but with multiple frames it is necessary to top off the vat occasionally.

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    • I have several pillar candle of the same size and wanted to cut 1 or 2 of them to make them graduated in height. Any suggestions as to how to do this without having the melt the candle?

      This is extremely difficult to do neatly. I have had some success cutting candles with a fine toothed bandsaw, but they still need to be heat leveled afterwards. You can also try a hacksaw or backsaw for this, but it does not come out as well as a bandsaw.

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    • What kind of glue or adhesive can I use on the outside of candles--to glue on embelishments?

      We find that tacky wax works best. It adheres well to almost anything and to wax. See 1/4 pound Tacky Wax or 1 pound Tacky Wax

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    • Can fragrance oils be kept refrigerated to prolong their life?

      I don't reccommend it. I have not seen any evidence that it actually prolongs shelf life and some oils will separate when stored in cold temperatures.

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    • Can you use scented wax in the latex molds?

      Yes. There have been no problems with using our scents in these molds over the years we have handled this latex product line.

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    • We want to make 6 inch diameter,6inch tall, 3 wick, pillar candles. Can you suggest the right wax and wick so that we can order the proper materials?

      There is no single correct answer to this as the precise wick needed will depend as much on the wax formulation as on the mold size. And there are pretty much an infinite number of possible combinations. I use a #2/0 square braid wick for that and if you use the same materials and wax formula it will work for you too. If not, that is where you should begin experimenting - increasing or decreasing in wick size to match your exact wax formula.

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    • What type of wax and wick would you recommend for paper cup firestarters?

      The wax doesn't matter for firestarters - any paraffin wax will work fine. Most choose our closeout wax for this as it is the cheapest and works well. Generally a wick is not needed - the edge of the cup is torn and lit. This causes the entire edge of the cup to turn into a wick. I always make these without a wick since it prevents people from mistaking them for candles (they burn uncontrollably, so this is best avoided). If you do prefer a wick, square braid #1 is a good size.

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    • I have seen candles dipped in wax melted in coffee cans directly on the stove. I have a 6" dipping vat to make larger candles. The vat is too large for the pot I use for a double boiler system when molding candles. Can the dipping vat be set directly on the burner, like the coffee cans, to melt the wax for dipping?

      NO! Wax for dipping should never be melted on direct heat regardless of the unsafe manner you have seen others do it. Furthermore, the direct heat will melt the solder that holds the vat together causing it to leak and spread hot wax all over the stove - this will in turn cause a large fire.

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    • Can a wax pitcher be set in a pan without being held? Do I need a special pan?

      It does not need to be held. Generally I like to use a pot about 4-5 inches high and hook the handle over the edge of the pot as shown here This image is from our free introductory candle course.

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    • I was wondering if the Heavy Duty Tray molds would work to make floating candles?

      It will work, as long as you are careful of the pouring temperature (under 165 degrees F.) however wicking them for use in floating candles is a bit difficult. A wick hole can be made and they can be wicked using a wick bar and putty. Alternately, they can be made, then drilled out for a wick. Remember that the bottom of the wick needs to be sealed with wax to keep from wicking up the water when used (this would shorten the burn time).

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    • What recipe should I use for tea lights?

      We find the following recipe works well:

      • 1 pound 140 melt point paraffin wax
      • 2 level teaspoons of Vybar 103
      • Color to suit
      • 1 ounce of scent oil (for a heavily scented candle) - Optional

      We use 34-40 zinc core wick in this formula.



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    • For your silicone candle molds, Do you need to spray the inside of the candle mold with a silicone releasant in order to remove the finished candle from the mold?

      For most waxes it is not necessary, however many users do spray them. It should be used if working with beeswax as it is more adhesive than most waxes.

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    • When making gel candles with scented wax embeds do I need to scent the gel wax as well?

      I personally would scent both. This will provide optimum scent throw which is none too great with gel to begin with (due to small melt pool).

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    • Why does my gel wax turn cloudy not clear?

      One of your embeds or something you are adding to the wax is clouding it. This is most common when using solid dyes, however it can also occur from some scent oils. Scent oils should be checked for clarity before using in gel.

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    • How can I get the color bands in layered candles to blend slightly rather than having a hard line between colors?

      This is a bit tricky to do and difficult to describe as well. It will take some practice to develop a sense of the correct timing. Allow the previous layer to cool until fairly firm, but not fully hardened. Pour the next layer hot (about 200 degrees F.). Repeat for each layer.

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    • How do I make candles with colored flames?

      There used to be some folks promoting soaking the wick in various salts such as cupric sulfate, epsom salts, etc... to cause colored flames. We find these don't really work, and have some doubts as to how safe it is to burn some of these compounds. We know of no way to effectively get colored candle flames.

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    • I used beeswax to make standard votive candle, the wick is square braid #3. When it burn to 1/3, the flame is very small, almost stop burn. Would you please kindly let me know the reason?

      This wick is extremely oversized for a beeswax votive candle which indicates one of two problems:

      • First and easiest to check is to try this with a wick more in line with the size of your candle such as a #1/0 or #2/0. An oversized wick will consume the entire melt pool, and eventually starve the flame of fuel. Ideally, the wick should consume wax at the same rate it melts it.
      • The second possibility is that you are using poorly filtered beeswax which still contains a lot of honey. This is most commonly seen with beeswax from local beekeepers since they often do not have the equipment to fully separate the honey from the wax. The honey will clog the wick and there is little that can be done to eliminate this other than switching to another supplier of beeswax. Note: This is not a problem with our beeswax since we get it from a large company with the proper filtering equipment.


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    • I'm looking for some black light reactive dyes, but am confused as to which ones are... neon, pigment, flakes?

      There are no black light reactive dyes so it is necessary to use Neon Color Pigments. Since pigments can clog the wick, use the absolute minimum amount needed to obtain the desired result. Note also that the UV brightener in our whitener dye flake is also black light reactive, and provides the purplish color commonly seen on white objects under a black light.

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    • In using gel wax do you have to add vybar or anything else to make it burn better?

      No additives are needed in gel wax and adding any will usually cloud the gel so they are not recommended.

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    • I recently purchased your votive candle kit. The instructions tell me to let wax cool to 185 degrees, but it doesn't tell me what temperature to bring the wax too before cooling. Could you please advise.

      Basically there is no set temperature that it has to be melted to (as long as it remains under 200 degrees F. for safety reasons)and all that really matters is that the wax is fully melted. Generally the wax is heated until melted, then allowed to heat some more if it below 185 degrees F. or cool if it is over 185 degrees F. I would also like to point out that the wax does not have to be precisely 185 degrees - anything in the range of 180 to 190 degrees F. will produce good results under normal conditions.

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    • When should a metal core wick be used?

      Generally metal core wicks are used in container candles and any mold that the wick is inserted from the top such as metal votive and floating candle molds (i.e. - molds with no wick hole).

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    • How do you make candles melt only in the middle or be dripless?

      An extremely hard wax formula will generally only burn in the middle although that is not usually desirable. Usually a candle that burns nearly all the way across and is droipless is more desirable. Making dripless candles is somewhat complex, and not easily answered in a small space like this. To work this way, a candle should be round since odd shapes tend to burn unevenly. First it requires a sufficiently hard wax - such as 140 mp paraffin with a hardener such as Vybar 103 or stearic acid. Next, you will need to experiment to find the best size wick. Ideally, the wick will consume wax at the same speed it melts the wax. When all the components of the candle are in balance, it will burn dripless.

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    • Do the different type of wicks burn at different rates?

      Yes, each size and style has a different burn rate. The heat generated is not that much different, however the larger the wick the more fuel it can carry to the flame.

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    • I get air bubbles in my votive candles, how can they be avoided or removed?

      If the bubbles are on the top of the candle, then you need to make the second pour sooner. This should be done after the first pour is firm to the touch, yet before the mold cools off. If the bubbles are on the sides, then most likely your pouring temperature is too low.

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    • Do different colour candles have different burning rates? If so what colour candle burns fastest.

      Candle color on its own will not change the burning properties of a candle under normal conditions. High concentrations of candle dyes may cause some wick clogging causing the candles to burn at different rate, however this is the exception, not the rule. If you are planning this for a science fair project please note that in order to get a proper comparison you must use candles all from a single manufacturer of the same type and size.

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    • I made some beautiful over dipped candles, but the outside layer came off the candle, or it made large air bubbles under it. Do you have any idea what can be the problem?

      The most common cause of this is the wax of the core candle or previous dip being too cool. Wax sticks best to warm wax, so dipping needs to start by holding the candle in the dip wax for 30 seconds to warm it up. After that, the candle should be dipped in and out of the wax, then in and out of the water bath, then immediately back in and out of the wax (repeat as needed). The air bubbles you describe typically result from the poor adhesion described so they are not actually a separate problem. If the problem persists, sometimes adding some Micro 180 Tacky Wax to the dipping wax helps.

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    • I'm trying to find dip and carve (or "cut and curl") wax, but have been unsuccessful in my attempts. Is there a formula for this type of wax that I can make at home?

      For colored cut & curl I normally use 140 mp paraffin with no additives and colored with pigments. For white cut and curl wax I add some stearic acid and color it with Titanium Dioxide.

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    • what is the right temperature to overdip candles?

      A temperature in the range of 150 to 160 degrees F. works best. If you make it too hot, not enough wax will adhere. If you make it too cold, the surface will get lumpy.

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    • I make glass container candles and I can't seem to get them to melt all the wax to the edges of the containers unless they are extreemly narrow. How do I lower the melting point of my wax?

      The only effective way to lower the melt point of paraffin wax is to mix it with a lower melt point wax. Some folks add petrolatum (petroleum jelly) for this, however I find it causes excessive soot and smoking and don't reccommend it. The problem is not necessarily related to the melt point though. Some low melt point wax blends (mostly known as "One Pour Waxes") seem to have this problem and I know of no cure for it other than using different wax. The problem may also be wick related, and I reccommend experimenting with several different wick sizes before making any other changes. Most candle makers tend to use an oversize wick to compensate for poor melt pool size on the assumption that a larger wick burns hotter. This however makes the problem worse since the difference in heat is negligible while the larger wick is pulling too much hot wax from the melt pool.

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    • How many ounces of pigment dye must I use per pound of wax?

      I prefer to use this at 5% to 10% (approximately 3/4 of an ounce to 1 1/2 ounces of pigment per pound of wax). This provides good color with the fewest dippings. These can be used at as little as 2% (a little more than 1/4 ounce per pound), however it will require more dips to attain the same depth of color.

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    • Why do some of my candles smoke and leave soot on the remaining wax?

      There are several common causes of this. I'll list them in order:

      • The most common cause is a wick that is too large, and this is the first thing you should check. Experiment with progressively smaller wick sizes to see if you can eliminate the problem before continuing on to the rest of this list.
      • I find that using petrolatum (petroleum jelly) or blended waxes containing it as a softening agent tends to cause smoking and excessive soot. I do not recommend using this in candles.
      • Many "One Pour" waxes on the market tend to produce a lot of soot as well.
      • Excessive amounts of scent oil and / or some low quality scent oils can cause this also.
      • Containers with a narrow neck can sometimes cause this by restricting oxygen flow to the flame. This can be corrected by switching container style.
      • Burning candles in a draft may sometimes cause this.


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    • How do I make candle melts/tarts?

      Basically, just make floating candles with no wicks. My preferred wax formula for melts is:
      • 1 pound 130 melt point paraffin
      • 1 level teaspoon of Vybar 260
      • 1 ounce of scent oil
      • dye to suit


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    • How is the wax actully made?

      Paraffin wax is made in oil refineries using fractional distillation.

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    • I have noticed spots on my jar candles where the wax pulled away from the container. I am using your container wax blend with no additional additives and one ounce scent oil per pound. I pour at about 170-175 degrees. Am I pouring the wax too hot or too cool? What might cause this.

      Unlike most waxes, with our container blend it is possible to make them without these bubbles (commonly called "wet spots"). The difficulty is in keeping them bubble free. Since glass and wax expand and contract at different rates, as the temperature fluctuates some eparation will occur. The only way to prevent this is to keep them at a stady temperature.

      More detailed information on this can be found on our wet spot troubleshooting page.



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    • I get air bubbles in my gel candles, how should they be avoided or removed?

      Gel wax is much more viscous than paraffin and any trapped bubbles may not have time to make it to the surface before the gel cools. The best way to avoid these bubbles is to pour the gel at a higher temperature and avoid stirring too vigorously when mixing in dye and scent. Generally pouring temperatures in the 225 to 240 degree range will eliminate most bubbles. Note that this must be done on direct heat and extreme caution needs to be used when heating any wax on direct heat. I have found no fast and simple way to remove bubbles, however over several months most bubbles will eventually dissappear.

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    • What wrap do you use to seal your Melts or Tarts?

      I don't wrap any of my candle products. Although you will lose some to damage from handling, they will sell much better unwrapped. Additionally, candle dye will also dye plastic (plastic is also petroleum based) so they will look dingy in very little time if you wrap them.

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    • What do I have to do to get the low as price?

      The "As low as" pricing indicates that there are volume discounts available for that product. Clicking on the item number (or photo where applicable) will bring up that product's detail page which has a chart showing the price break at various volumes. Just order the desired volume and the shopping cart system will calculate the discount at checkout.

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    • Can you use liquid potpourri as a scent when making candles?

      Some may work, but some will not and you should experiment with a small batch of wax if you wish to try this. Generally potpourri scent of any kind will scent wax, although most leave an annoying residue that is difficult to remove from molds and pouring pots.

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    • How do you make wicks?

      We don't. Our wicks are manufactured by Atkins and Pearce. The actual process is just braiding the cotton thread.

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    • Can any votive candle be used as a floating candle?

      To float upright, a candle needs to be wider than it is tall, so most votives will not be suitable.

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    • When using wax art crystals,how do you scent them, if you use them like sand art?

      Wax art is scented by placing a few drops of scent oil near the wick, after finishing the candle. Note that this technique will never throw scent as well as a more traditionally made candle. Wax art can also be scented before granulating it, however this is a special order item that requires a huge minimum order per scent / color.

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    • One candle was hard to release from mold. I put it in the freezer for 20 minutes and then it released. It had lines on it like a design that looked like mountains. Then when I was evening out the bottom it broke apart where the lines were.

      Freezing paraffin causes it to crack and those fine lines were cracks. Please see our troubleshooting guide for a detailed explanation of how to avoid this on future stuck candles.

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    • I would like to know how to make sand candles. Thank you for your attention.

      Sand Candles are made by the following method:

      • Put sand in a tray.
      • Wet the sand just enough that it will hold its shape.
      • Form a cavity in the sand to pour the wax into.
      • Melt the wax and heat to 275 degrees F. - NOTE: This is very dangerous - see the safety rules before doing this. Do not add scent or color to this wax.
      • Pour into the cavity created in step 3. It will sizzle as it heats up the wet sand.
      • Immediately start removing the wax from the center with a ladle or large spoon.
      • Allow to cool a bit.
      • Heat up the fill wax (may be scented and colored) to about 185 degrees F.
      • Fill the candle.
      • Insert one or more pretabbed wicks in appropriate places.
      • Allow to cool.
      • Make a second pour if needed.
      • Once fully cool, remove the candle from the sand.
      • Brush off excess sand.


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    • I have a small wax melter that has a valve in it. Even when running melted wax through it, the valve appears to have a slight clog in it. Is it ok to you use mold cleaner to clean this?

      I actually keep a heat gun (the type used for stripping paint) handy for this. I heat the valve when necessary to melt the hardened wax out.

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    • Hello, Please can you advice me how to straighten a candle. Thanks Anne

      I'm sorry, but there is no way that I know of to straighten a candle.

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    • What causes container candles to crack?

      This can be caused by several things: Most common is a scratch on the glass or a defect in the glass - glass is cut by scratching it then stressing the crack. The heating of a glass with a scratch can cause this stress. Next, burning a candle to the very bottom may also cause this although it is not too common in glass with no visible flaws.

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    • Is there a formula to help measure the amount of wax to melt for the size candle? How do you go from solid weight to liquid volume?

      There is no direct correlation since the volume of the melted wax will vary with the temperature. Wax is slightly lighter than water so generally if you determine the volume of the mold / jar then melt that many ounces of wax, you should have just a little leftover wax.

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    • Do you have complete instructions on how to make the flameless electric candles?

      No, I'm sorry we do not get involved with electrical candles.

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    • Why do I always get poke holes all over the tapered candles when after taking out the candle in mold from the fridge? At times, it looks ok but at times, there are full of poke holes. hope you could help me on this. Tks! Lynn

      Fast cooling candles in a refrigerator can cause this due to uneven cooling. The problem is aggravated on candles with less mass such as tapers. I suggest cooling at normal room temperature.

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    • What is the secret to making black container candles?

      Actually there is no secret really, just use a good black dye such as our dye flakes. Lower quality dyes will never dye to a true black. Note that a jet black can be obtained with our black flakes, however using them in high concentrations may cause some wick clogging problems so a bit of experimentation may be needed.

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    • Can crayon shavings be used to color wax or just stirred into melted wax?

      Only if you don't want the candle to burn well. Crayons contain pigments which will usually clog the wick. I do not recommend using crayons to color candles.

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    • Will a colored candle will burn faster than a plain white candle?

      There is no single correct answer for this. Generally it depends on how the candles were made and what ingredients were used (there are an almost infinite number of possibilities here). Some companies use dyes that contain pigment and others don't and pigment will affect burning as it clogs the wick. Theoretically, properly made candles identical in all but color should burn a about the same. In reality many candle dyes (especially white and dark colors) have a minor component of pigment which will affect burning. Note that not all white candles are dyed though so not all white candles will have pigment in them and not all forms of candle dye contain pigments.

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    • Can I use acrylic paint or water colors for the carved candles?

      No. No form of acrylic paint, food coloring, or water based paints are compatible as a wax ingredient and will just create a big mess.

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    • What is the difference between Vybar 103 and Vybar 260?

      Essentially the only difference is the melting point. Vybar 260 has a melt point of 130 degrees F. - Generally used with lower melting point waxes for applications such as container candles and some votives. Vybar 103 has a melt point of 160 degrees F. - Used for most candle making.

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    • What is the color charting for making candles with using only the basic 5 colors.

      Basically the same as for paint mixing except you cannot add white to make it lighter or black to darken it.

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    • I recently purchased a candle dipping frame from you. It did not come with instructions, can you please tell me how this item works? Thank you

      Full instructions for using our dipping frames can be found at http://www.onestopcandle.com/candle/taperframeinsrtuct.htm

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    • I like to recycle my used candles and make new ones but all my candles sink in the middle as they cool. What am I doing wrong and how can I correct it?

      Wax (virtually everything in the universe as well) expands when heated and shrinks when cooled causing this sinkage. A detailed explanation of this and how to deal with it can be found here.

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    • Why is my votive candle only burning about 30 minutes?

      Votives are designed to melt fast for maximum scent throw. If they are only lasting 30 minutes you apparently are not burning them in a glass holder or are using a holder that is way too large for the candle. Votives are essentially container candles without the container and need to be burned in a holder to get the best usage from them.

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    • I make candles in containers and add embeds on top.I make different embeds of different colors.For instance I make little cinnamon buns and put them on top and drizzle with wax.My problem is after a little time goes by the embeds fade and the color bleeds into the container wax. How can I keep this from happening?

      There is little that can be done for bleeding. Our flake dyes bleed a bit less than other types, but still bleed. Flake Dyes can be found here.

      The fading can be greatly reduced with the use of UV inhibitor. UV Inhibitor can be found here.



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    • I am making container candles, why is the top of my candles not smooth after the second or third pour. What can I do. thanks

      The most common cause for this problem is pouring too soon, while the first pour is still shrinking. The second pour should be made when the first pour has cooled until firm, yet the container is still slightly warm. If you pour too soon the first pour is still shrinking causing the uneven top. Rarely should a container take more than 2 pours unless extremely large.

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    • How do I texture pillar candles after they come out smooth?

      Candles can be textured with anything hard enough to mark the surface such as wire brushes, hammers, carving tools to name a few of the more popular ones.

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    • How can I remove the black residue on my used glass votive holders?

      If the holder has been used recently, allow it to cool to room temperature before continuing. Next, place it in the freezer for an hour. When it comes out the wax residue will be brittle and easy to remove. Once the wax is all out of the holder, it can be wiped/washed as you would any other glass product.

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    • Do you know whether essential oils are needed to make effective citronella mosquito repellent candles? Or can fragrance oils work?

      I make very effective citronella candles with our citronella fragrance oil by using it as the rate of 1 ounce per pound of wax.

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