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Wax Formulas For Container Candles

By Bob Sherman

Wax formulas or recipes as they are sometimes called can be quite confusing to beginners. In this article I will explain various ingredients and offer wax formulas I have had success with for making container candles.

PLEASE NOTE!! - Candle making can be dangerous if proper safety procedures are not followed. Please read these Safety Rules before attempting any candle making projects.

This article assumes basic candle making skills. If you are new to candle making, my Introduction To Candle Making Online Course is free and will show you all the basics for working with wax safely.

What Is A Container Candle?

Any candle in a self contained holder can be considered a container candle. The vast majority are made in glass, however other materials are sometimes used such as metal or terra cotta. The important thing is that the container be a non flammable material and not prone to leaking hot wax.

Glass is the easiest to use and the most popular. Contrary to popular belief, there is no special type of glass for candle making. Glass is formed at very high temperatures - far higher than a candle could ever hope to attain. The main thing when selecting glass is to avoid any that have scratches or chips since the stress of the heat will often cause the flaws to crack. Use only glass that shows no sign of any damage.

Terra cotta flower pots are popular for container candles, but there is some danger when burning if not prepared correctly - see Flower Pot Candles if these interest you.

Metal tins are sometimes used, but if these are not seamless, the seams should be sealed with silicone caulk before using.

Flammable containers such as wood should never be used. Don't email me that you saw them in a store - there are candle makers that are either stupid or just don't care - but you don't have to copy them.

What Makes A Good Container Candle?

Generally a well made container candle contains a soft wax formula and has a wick suitable for that formula / candle diameter combination in a safe, non flammable container. This will provide a candle that has:

Long Burn time.
Good scent throw (if scented).
Large Melt Pool - A melt pool that extends all the way across and at least 1/2 inch deep is most desirable for maximum scent throw.
Minimal Carbon - Since container candles should be made with a cored wick, it will not be self trimming. This causes carbon deposits (mushrooming) on the wick. A properly sized wick will have minimal carbon buildup.
Minimal Shrinkage - generally shrinking is not a desirable property in container candles.

Paraffin Wax

The main ingredient. Paraffin wax is a complex molecule that is created at oil refineries by fractional distillation. The general assumption is that wax is wax, however the reality is that no two waxes are identical and they even vary slightly from one batch to the next from the same manufacturer.

Although on the surface that last statement does not seem too significant, the implications have an enormous bearing on your candle making:

Any published wax formula (including mine) may need to be adjusted unless you are using the exact same wax and other ingredients.
As far as we are concerned, Melt Point is just a simplified way of comparing waxes - however two waxes with the same melt point may have radically different properties that affect the finished candle.

The most important factor with wax is to find one that works well for you and stick with it. Every time you change waxes, you will need to test your formulas and wick sizes.

Scent

If you are making scented candles, scent oil will affect your wax formula and usually the wick size needed as well. Scent oil will make the wax slightly softer and lower the viscosity (thickness) of the melted wax. The main implication of this is that you may need a different wick size for scented and unscented candles made with the same wax formula.

Some important things to know about scent oils:

As mentioned previously, any published wax formula (including mine) may need to be adjusted unless you are using the exact same scent oil and other ingredients.
There are virtually no standards - scent oils from different sources will have different properties.
Most wax formulas have a maximum carrying capacity of 1 ounce scent oil per pound of wax (with some formulas it is less). because of this always use a high quality oil for the best scent throw. You cannot just double up on a cheap low quality oil.
Avoid potpourri oils - these usually contain glycol which is not oil soluble and will make a slimy, oily mess of your molds and equipment. Some cheap "candle scents" contain glycol as well.
If you make both scented and unscented candles, the use of carrier oil in unscented candles will allow the use of the same wick size for both which helps simplify things.
Most scent oils have a tint - avoid using these if a white candle is desired.

Colorants

Container candles should always be colored with candle dyes. Pigments or crayons should never be used as they will clog the wick.

Wick

Always use a cored wick in container candles. Cored wick is used for two main reasons:

Safety - The core prevents the wick from leaning over close to the glass on candles with a deep melt pool.
Convenience - Generally it is much easier to make container candles with a pre tabbed cored wick.

See my Wick Selection Guide for information about choosing the correct wick.

Container Wax Formula #1
This is my favorite container candle formula and I highly recommend it. It works very well with both scented and unscented candles, and has the best scent throw I have ever been able to attain from candles. Since it contains the necessary additives, just add scent and color.

1 pound of Container Blend wax
Scent Oil - 1 ounce per pound of wax
Color - dye block or flake to desired color

Note: This refers to our container blend wax which I find to be the best, other brands may have less than satisfactory results. Note that this is not a one pour wax as I find most waxes that are marketed as "one pour" are nasty to work with and burn poorly. Please don't email me for the formula because the manufacturer considers it a trade secret so I don't know it and have never been able to duplicate it in my shop.

Container Wax Formula #2
This formula is what I used before our container blend was available. Although it makes a pretty good candle, it shrinks more than the blended wax.

1 pound of 130 melt point paraffin wax
Vybar 260 - 1 level teaspoon
Scent Oil - 1 ounce per pound of wax
Color - dye block or flake to desired color

Note: Vybar based formulas are more opaque and require slightly more dye to attain the same depth of color.

Container Wax Formula #3
This formula is a variant of formula #2. It is slightly softer for a deeper melt pool.

3/4 pound of 130 melt point paraffin wax
1/4 pound of 125 melt point paraffin wax
Vybar 260 - 1 level teaspoon
Scent Oil - 1 ounce per pound of wax
Color - dye block or flake to desired color

Note: Vybar based formulas are more opaque and require slightly more dye to attain the same depth of color.

Container Wax Formula #4
This Stearic based formula is what I used before Vybar was widely available. It is rather old fashioned and dates back to when I started making candles in the 1970s. Stearic is more expensive to use, however it is slightly easier to obtain - especially outside the U.S. Stearic based formulas will not hold as much scent oil and will not retain their scent as well as Vybar based formulas. Stearic based formulas are less opaque, and do not inhibit oil mottling (snowflakes).

1 pound of 130 melt point paraffin wax (substitute 140 mp wax in warm climates)
Stearic Acid - 3 level Tablespoons
Scent Oil - 1 ounce or less per pound of wax - the actual maximum amount that can be used will vary depending on your wax
Color - dye block or flake to desired color

Stearic based formulas are inferior in nearly every way to Vybar based formulas. The one exception is if you are intentionally making mottled candles because Vybar will inhibit the mottling reaction.

Candle Making Supplies

The following candle making supplies are what I use to make pillar candles. Clicking on the item name will bring you to that item's page with a full description and ordering information.

Container Blend Wax

Paraffin Wax

Additives (Vybar, Stearic)

Pre Tabbed Zinc Core Wick

Melting / Pouring Pot

Thermometer

Disclaimer: The information presented here is accurate to the best of my knowledge and common candle making practices as of the time of this writing - May 2007. The author and the publisher accept no liability for the use or misuse of any of the information presented in this article. This article is presented for informational purposes and is used at your own risk.

Author: Bob Sherman

Publisher: Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc.

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