Candle Making Project

By Bob Sherman

I originally published this project in 1998 and have rewritten and modernized it to fit this site. This technique is a variant of chunk candles using long chunks and high fill temperature to provide a different look. The longer the mold is kept out of the water bath, the more blending between the colors will occur. IMPORTANT - This project requires melting wax on direct heat which is very hazardous if proper safety precautions are not observed. Please read the Safety Rules before proceeding.

Most of the candle making supplies needed can be ordered directly from this page for your convenience.

PLEASE NOTE!! - Candle making can be dangerous if proper safety procedures are not followed. Please read these Safety Rules before attempting any candle making projects.

The same wax formula was used throughout. The following formula works well for this.

Candle Making Supplies

The following candle making supplies and other materials were used to make this candle. Clicking on the item name will bring you to that item's page with a full description and ordering information.

Item Amount Used
140 Melt Point Paraffin Wax Enough to fill your mold and dipping vat.
Vybar 103 1 level teaspoon per pound of wax.

Scent Oil

Optional. 1 ounce per pound of wax.
Mold One. A 3 x 6 1/2 inch round metal mold works well for this.
Melting / Pouring Pot Minimum one. One for each color is more convenient.
Thermometer One
Dye I used red and blue dye for this project.
Wick Sized to fit your candle diameter and wax formula.
Mold Release One. Silicone spray or release agent of your preference.
Water Bucket One.

Step By Step Instructions

1. Long chunks of colored wax are needed. Pour colored wax into pans to a depth of 1/4 inch or so. Once firm, but not fully hardened cut into strips with a knife or pizza cutter. Allow to harden. 2. Prepare the mold with release and wick. Lay the mold on its side and fill tightly with the long chunks.
3. Stand the mold upright. The fill wax is made with the same formula, but no dye is added. To obtain the color blending, we will be pouring at 275 degrees F. which requires melting on direct heat. IMPORTANT: Using direct heat is dangerous if the wax is overheated. Do not attempt this without a thermometer. Do not leave the wax unattended for even a few seconds. Be vigilant, and do not allow the temperature to go above 325 degrees F. Do not let your attention wander. 4. The pour should end 1/4 inch from the top of the mold. Tap the mold with a wooden spoon to dislodge any air bubbles trapped by the chunks. Note: Air cooling this candle may cause excessive melting of the chunks. Placing the mold in a water bath after tapping will stop the blending. More information on using a water bath may be found here.
5. Poke some relief holes near the wick as the wax solidifies. Allow to harden fully. 6. Make a second pour stopping 1/4 inch below the level of the first pour.
7. Once fully cooled, remove the candle from the mold. Trim the bottom wick. 8. Use a scraping motion to trim the mold seam if necessary.
9. Level the base in a heated pan or griddle. 10. Trim the top wick to 1/4 inch.
11. The finished candle.  

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Disclaimer: The information presented here is accurate to the best of my knowledge and common candle making practices as of the time of this writing Originally published in 1998 and updated in August 2006 and July 2011. The author and the publisher accept no liability for the use or misuse of any of the information presented in this article. This article is presented for informational purposes and is used at your own risk.

Author: Bob Sherman

Publisher: Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc.

This article is provided free of charge for use. Candles may be made and sold using this design royalty free, however no portion of this article may be reproduced for publication elsewhere without express permission from Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc. with the following exceptions: