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| 9. The shell after cutting out is completed. | 10. Place the shell back in the mold - align the mold seam. Wick and seal the mold normally. Wooden spring clothespins are used to hold the wax tight to the mold where needed. |
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| 11. Start with yellow and pour to just above the tips of the cuts. Allow to form a surface film. Add some orange dye to your yellow wax and pour another layer. Repeat this until the mold is filled, making each layer a bit darker with more orange dye. | 12. As the pouring approaches the top, remove the clothespins. The final pour should end 1/4 inch below the top of the mold. |
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| 13. As the wax hardens, poke a few relief holes near the wick. Allow the wax to harden fully. | 14. Make a second pour, stopping 1/4 inch below the level of the first pour. Allow it to cool fully. |
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| 15. Remove the candle from the mold. Trim the bottom wick flush with the base. Level the base on a heated pan or griddle. | 16. Hold your knife perpendicular to the seam and scrape the seam until it is flush with the sides. |
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| 17. Trim the top wick to 1/4 inch. | 18. The finished candle. |
Disclaimer: The information presented here is accurate to the best of my knowledge and common candle making practices as of the time of this writing - August 2006. The author and the publisher accept no liability for the use or misuse of any of the information presented in this article. This article is presented for informational purposes and is used at your own risk.
Author: Bob Sherman
Publisher: Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc.
This article is provided free of charge for use. Candles may be made and sold using this design royalty free, however no portion of this article may be reproduced for publication elsewhere without express permission from Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc. with the following exceptions:
All other requests need to be submitted via our reprint request form.
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