By Bob Sherman
Candle Making Project
I originally published this project in 1998 and have rewritten and modernized it to fit this site. This technique uses a power drill to cut out windows which are then filled with a contrasting wax. This style also draws heavily on basic hurricane shell candle techniques.
Most of the candle making supplies needed can be ordered directly from this page for your convenience.
PLEASE NOTE!! - Candle making can be dangerous if proper safety procedures are not followed. Please read these Safety Rules before attempting any candle making projects.
The same formula is used for both colors. The following formula works well for this.
- 1 pound of 140 MP wax
- 1 level teaspoon of Vybar 103 per pound of wax)
- 1 ounce scent oil (optional)
- Dye as needed
Candle Making Supplies
The following candle making supplies and other materials were used to make this candle. Clicking on the item name will bring you to that item's page with a full description and ordering information.
- 140 Melt Point Paraffin Wax - Enough to fill your mold twice (once per color).
- Vybar 103 - 1 level teaspoon per pound of wax.
- Scent Oil - Optional. 1 ounce per pound of wax.
- Mold - Your choice, but 3 inch round molds work very well for this.
- Melting / Pouring Pot - One for each color.
- Thermometer - One.
- Dyes - This looks best when made in contrasting colors.
- Wick - Sized to fit your mold and wax formula.
- Mold Plug - One.
- Drill Press - A drill press works best, although if you are careful a variable speed hand power drill may be used.
- Drill Bits - Fostner type drill bits work best and make the cleanest holes. These are more expensive than standard drill bits, but well worth it.
Step By Step Instructions
|1. Prepare the mold by plugging the wick hole. I prefer to use rubber plugs for this as it leaves a mark where the wick hole is to be drilled.||2. Fill the mold - pouring temperature of 185 - 190 degrees F. Allow to cool until a wall thickness of approximately 3/8 inch is obtained. This may be done in a water bath to speed the process.|
|3. To check the wall thickness, cut through the surface film with a knife.||4. Once the desired wall thickness is reached, cut and remove the surface film. This may be placed back in the melting pot for reuse.|
|5. Immediately pour out the molten wax.||6. Allow the mold to harden fully. A water bath may be used to speed this process.|
|7. Once fully hardened, the wax can be removed from the mold.||8. Drill a small hole in the top center to accommodate the wick. If you used a rubber plug in step one there will be a mark at the precise spot. If you did not use a rubber plug, place the candle back in the mold and mark the wick hole position with a small nail or other pointy object.|
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Disclaimer: The information presented here is accurate to the best of my knowledge and common candle making practices as of the time of this writing Originally published in 1998 and updated in September 2006 and June 2011. The author and the publisher accept no liability for the use or misuse of any of the information presented in this article. This article is presented for informational purposes and is used at your own risk.
Author: Bob Sherman
Publisher: Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc.
This article is provided free of charge for use. Candles may be made and sold using this design royalty free, however no portion of this article may be reproduced for publication elsewhere without express permission from Bobby's Craft Boutique Inc. with the following exceptions:
- Non profit organizations such as religious groups, scouts, 4h, etc... may use this information without permission for printed materials provided it is used without modification and credit is given to both the author and onestopcandle.com
- Reprinting to the web is prohibited without permission, however web sites wishing to link to this article may do so without permission.